Art is the flower – Life is the green leaf. Let every artist strive to make his flower a beautiful living thing – something that will convince the world that there may be – there are – things more precious -more beautiful – more lasting than life. But to do this you must offer real living – beautifully coloured flowers – flowers that grow from but above the green leaf – flowers that are not dead – are not dying – not artificial – real flowers springing form your own soul – not even cut flowers – you must offer the flowers of the art that is in you – the symbols of all that is noble – and beautiful – and inspiring – flowers that will often change a colourless cheerless life – into an animated thoughtful thing.
(Charles Rennie Mackintosh Seemliness-lecture 1902)
The Tree of Personal Effort Charles Rennie Mackintosh 1895
Wanderer, your footsteps are
the road, and nothing more;
wanderer, there is no road,
the road is made by walking.
By walking one makes the road,
and upon glancing behind
one sees the path
that never will be trod again.
Wanderer, there is no road–
Only wakes upon the sea.
Antonio Machado portrait
On the basement of a statue erected in front of the sea in memoriam of the poet there is a plaque with the same verses as those we can read on his gravestone. I’ve found a good English translation of these verses on the Virtual Tourist website on the page ’25 things to do in Collioure’. Barbara, the translator is a Welsh travel writer who writes under the pseudonym of Ranger49.
Collioure plaque Antonio Machado © 2012 Scotiana
‘A ceramic plaque bearing the words of the final verse of one of Machado’s poems rests on his grave. The same verse can be seen on the base of a small sculpture of a plaintive figure that stands looking out to sea on the grass beside the childrens playground on Rue de la Democratie next to the entrance to the Chateau carpark.’ (Ranger49)
And when the day for the last journey comes,
and the ship of no return is ready to set sail,
you will find me on board, travelling light,
practically naked, like the children of the sea.
…
Luminous reflections on the sea – Ferry Mallaig-Armadale © 2003 Scotiana
Only wakes upon the sea.
Mackintosh Trail journey in Roussillon – Scotiana modified Google map
Collioure The beach Church Notre Dame des Anges © 2012 Scotiana
The ‘Château Royal’ in Collioure © 2012 Scotiana
The Royal Castle in Collioure © 2012 Scotiana
Collioure dog on the beach © 2012 Scotiana
Collioure road signs to the old Dominican Convent © 2012 Scotiana
.
But we walked on the waterfront, around the town, on the beaches and up the Dominican Cloister….
.
The old Dominican Cloister in Collioure © 2012 Scotiana
The Bay of Collioure © 2012 Scotiana
It is one of the most wonderful places we have ever seen. It is only a fishing village and it will be difficult to find accommodation – and there is no hotel…
(From a letter written by Margaret in Collioure during the summer of 1924 )
Collioure Bay – Notre Dame des Anges – St Vincent chapel © 2012 Scotiana
“No sky in all France is more blue than that of Collioure”
(H. Matisse)
In the early 20th century Collioure became a center of artistic activity, with several Fauve artists making it their meeting place. André Derain, Georges Braque, Othon Friesz, Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, James Dickson Innes and Tsuguharu Fujita have all been inspired by Collioure’s royal castle, medieval streets, its lighthouse converted into the church of Notre-Dame-des-Anges and its typical Mediterranean bay. Collioure’s cemetery contains the tomb of Spanish poet Antonio Machado, who fled here to escape advancing Francois troops at the end of the Spanish Civil War in 1939.
The British historical novelist Patrick O’Brian lived in the town from 1949 until his death in 2000, and his novel The Catalans graphically describes Collioure life before major changes took place. He also wrote a biography of Picasso, who was an acquaintance. O’Brian and his wife Mary are also buried in the town cemetery. (…)
Ninety-eight reproductions of Matisse’s and Derain’s works are exposed exactly where these two masters of Fauvism painted the originals, in the early 20th century.
Collioure is also famous for its anchovies, which are referenced in Mark Kurlansky’s book Salt as the best in the world.
Source: Wikipedia
Three are only three watercolours painted by Mackintosh in the area of Collioure:
“Collioure” Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s watercolour painted in 1924
(Monsieur Mackintosh Robin Crichton)
CR Mackintosh’s watercolour The Summer Palace of the Queens of Aragon
‘The Summer Palace of the Queens of Aragon was painted from beside the Route Impériale across the bay but the spot where Mackintosh mus have sat is now a private garden. The view is much the same today except that one of the towers has been restored’.
(Monsieur Mackintosh – Robin Crichton)
Collioure reconstruction panel of Mackintosh’s ‘The Summer Palace of the Queens’ © 2012 Scotiana
Here’s the only reconstruction panel we’ve found of a watercolour painted by Mackintosh in Collioure.
Collioure Mackintosh in situ reproduction panel of ‘The Summer Palace of the Queens’ © 2012 Scotiana
We stayed a long moment here, admiring the landscape and trying to imagine the artist at work…
We could not have had a better weather…
CR Mackintosh’s watercolour A Southern Town 1924
A Southern Town painted in 1924.
Mackintosh was attracted to the rural villages nestling in the hillsides of southern France, drawn by the organic way in which the towns sprang from their surrounding landscape. The simple geometric shapes of the houses provided a patterned landscape ideally suited to the stylized manner in which Mackintosh interpreted the scene around him. This painting of A Southern Town reflects the strong Mediterranean sunlight, throwing dark long shadows and illuminating the brilliant white of the buildings. Mackintosh was unusual in his approach to painting by treating the entire canvas in the same detailed manner. A strange but effective dynamic is created in his use of strong, bold perspective. (Mackintosh – Tamsin Pickeral Flame Tree Publishing 2005)
Collioure in situ frame sculpture Marc-André 2 Figueres © 2012 Scotiana
Now, a funny touch to end our artistic tour of the village. There are twelve picture frames like this dotted all around Collioure which allow you to get a different view of the famous clocher of Collioure. It will be your own view and also a changing view of course. It will never be the same. These so-called ‘sculptures’ were created by the artist Marc Andre De Figueres in 1991. It is a good idea, isn’t it !
http://youtu.be/cN_pP7SR-kg
Twilight in the old fishing village of Collioure Source Wikimedia
It was late when we left Collioure but not late enough alas to watch the sunset falling on the Bay. Next time maybe…
Bonne lecture !
The next episode of our ‘Mackintosh pilgrimage’ in Roussillon will lead us to Amélie-les-Bains and Palalda…
A bientôt!
Mairiuna
[…] Scotiana | Charles Rennie Mackintosh Trail in Roussillon: Collioure […]