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The Best of Scotland – Argyll & The Isles: from Oban to Mull…

 

Visit Scotland Argyll & The Isles Brochure 2012

Visit Scotland Argyll & The Isles Brochure 2012

Dear readers,

Are you ready to resume our trip around Scotland and to discover or re-discover some of its most beautiful landscapes and seascapes?

Books, maps, photo albums and notebooks are gathered on my desk ready to make us dream about ‘Everything Scotland’. Last time we  focused on the beautiful Cowal peninsula and the Isle of Bute, ‘Doon the Water’ in the Firth of Clyde.

Today our quest for the best of Scotland in Argyll and the Isles leads us from Oban to the Isle of Mull… and believe me, it’s a great journey!

A panoramic view of  Oban from McCaig's Tower © 2012 Scotiana

A panoramic view of Oban from McCaig’s Tower © 2012 Scotiana

Of course, a day-out in Scotland depends on the weather which is, as everybody knows, very changing.  Last time we went to Oban, with the aim to climb up to the famous McCaig monument which dominates the town, it was ‘un vrai temps de chien’, with much wind up there.

This so-called ‘folly’ which gives itself airs of a Greek Colyseum was erected by John Stuart McCaig to create jobs for local people. He was himself a local builder.

A view of Oban from McCaig's Tower © 2012 Scotiana

A view of Oban from McCaig’s Tower © 2012 Scotiana

Oban is a picturesque seaside resort and also a very busy harbour from which visitors can embark for Mull and other islands aboard the Isle of Mull or the Lord of the Isles, two magnificent  ‘fleurons’ of the  Caledonian MacBrayne fleet.

Mull is one of our favourite places in Scotland and would certainly rank high in our “top ten” places to see. We visited it in 2003, 2004, 2006 and plan to go back there in next spring. Its landscapes are never the same, varying according to the light from a most cheerful and colourful place to the most gloomy one.  Anyway, don’t forget your maps, binoculars and of course your camera when you embark, for the crossing between Oban and Mull is in itself a feast.

A view of Oban from the ferry © 2004 Scotiana

A view of Oban from the ferry © 2004 Scotiana

Sea and sky were as blue as in the Mediterranean countries when we took these pictures in May 2004… we were lucky that day but one must accept the rules of the game when visiting a country and,  in Scotland, weather is the master of the game. We can win or lose but it is worth the game, isn’t it !

A view of Dunollie Castle in Oban © 2004 Scotiana

A view of Dunollie Castle in Oban © 2004 Scotiana

Shall we be as lucky as that on our next trip to Oban in May? I wonder… but you will be the first to know 😉

Oban-Mull ferry © 2003 Scotiana

Oban-Mull ferry © 2003 Scotiana

We look forward to embarking again aboard these emblematic ferries. Will it be the Lord of the Isles or the Isle of Mull ?

The Caledonian MacBrayne ferry Lord of the Isles © 2003 Scotiana

The Caledonian MacBrayne ferry Lord of the Isles © 2003 Scotiana

Now, ready to embark ?

Oban-Mull ferry crossing © 2003 Scotiana

Oban-Mull ferry crossing © 2003 Scotiana

Here we are, sailing on…

A view of Duart Castle from the ferry Oban-Mull © 2004 Scotiana

A view of Duart Castle from the ferry Oban-Mull © 2004 Scotiana

Put your parka on and don’t hesitate to leave the comfort of the ferry luxurious drawing rooms to face the elements outside on the deck.  It’s worth the effort! Be the weather nice or bad, you can get wonderful memories and pictures from this journey, like this photo of Duart Castle taken just before arriving to Mull.

Rocky  islet Sound of Mull © 2003 Scotiana

Maiden Island in the Sound of Mull © 2003 Scotiana

You pass along a number of tiny rocky and green islands, each of them trying to tell its old story to its fleeting audiences…

 

Maiden Island lies just off the coast of mainland Scotland, west of Dunollie Castle and Camas Bàn. It is to the north of the narrow entrance to Oban Bay and about 0.5 kilometres (0.31 mi) miles north of the much larger island of Kerrera. The passage is deep and large vessels such as the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry MV Isle of Mull make regular use of this strait. The island reaches a height of 28 metres (92 ft) above sea level.

The prominent Hutchison Memorial on the north end of Kerrera that commemorates David Hutchison, one of the founders of Caledonian MacBrayne, is visible from Maiden Island.

There are a variety of legends associated with the naming of the isle. It may have a connection with King Malcolm IV of Scotland (1153–1165) known as “Malcolm the Maiden” by later chroniclers, who had connections with Kerrera. Another story involves a young girl accused of a crime who was tied up on the shore there in order to persuade her make an admission. However, she refused and when the tide came in she drowned. A more romantic tale concerns Muireadhach (Murdoch), a Celtic warrior who was in love with Mhairi, the daughter of a local man. Doubts were cast about the latter’s chastity and it was decided she should be tied by her hair to a rock on the shore to test her purity. The problem for Mhairi was that if her hair held strong her innocence would be proven but she would drown. Muireadhach made an heroic effort to save her by attempting to swim to the island but strong currents swept him away and they both drowned.

(Source Wikipedia)

 

 

Eilean Musdile Lighthouse Argyll mountains © 2003 Scotiana

Eilean Musdile Lighthouse Argyll mountains © 2003 Scotiana

 

This lighthouse, situated on the small island of Eilean Musdile, on the route of the Oban-Mull Caledonian MacBrayne ferry  is one of our favourite views in Scotland. In the background the mountains: Ben Cruachan and the peaks of Glen Etive.

Eilean Musdile (Mansedale) is an islet, and lighthouse to the south west of Lismore in the Inner Hebrides.

The island lies in the entrance to Loch Linnhe, separated from Lismore by a sound ¼ miles across. It is a low-lying rock, ten acres (4 ha) in size, with some grass on it. CalMac ferries pass close to the island on their way from Oban to Mull.

The lighthouse was built by Robert Stevenson in 1833 at a cost of £4260 and initially showed a fixed white light. In 1910 most of the Northern Lighhouse Board’s lights were changed to dioptric or Fresnel lenses but Lismore and Fidra, in the Firth of Forth, were left as the only remaining purely catoptric lights in the service.

A Standing Stone once stood on the highest point of the island. The 9-foot (2.7 m) monolith appears to have recorded the midwinter sunset and is thought to have been removed during construction of the lighthouse.

The skerry of Lady’s Rock lies a short distance to the south west.

(Source Wikipedia)

 

Arrival of the ferry on Mull at Craignure terminal © 2003 Scotiana

Arrival of the ferry on Mull at Craignure terminal © 2003 Scotiana

After a late arrival at Craignure,  a quick installation and hot meal in our bunkhouse at Balmeanach campsite, it was time to  revise our planning for the following days and get a good night sleep.

Mull MA planning trip around the isle  © 2003 Scotiana

Mull MA planning trip around the isle © 2003 Scotiana

It’s always with much anticipation that we look at our next day itinerary…   Duart Castle, Torosay Castle, the magnificent scenic road, Salen, Tobermory and of course Iona and Staffa we’re waiting for us.

We have many stories and pictures to share with you still, so don’t miss our next episodes of the series ‘The Best of Scotland’…

A bientôt.

Mairiuna.

Panoramic view of Oban taken from the Oban-Mull ferry © 2003 Scotiana

Panoramic view of Oban taken from the Oban-Mull ferry © 2003 Scotiana

 

Today, on my desk:

The Scottish Islands Hamish Haswell-Smith Canongate 2004

The Scottish Islands Hamish Haswell-Smith Canongate 2004

 

An Eye on The Hebrides An Illustrated Journey Mairi Hedderwick Canongate 2000

An Eye on The Hebrides An Illustrated Journey Mairi Hedderwick Canongate 2000

Highland journey Mairi Hedderwick Canongate 2000

Highland journey Mairi Hedderwick Canongate 2000

 

 

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